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Se habla Español. Car is in good overall condition with some rough spots that are cosmetic, but no real mechanical issues. Title is clean. It has been a great and very reliable commuter car, but isn't getting much use these days. Gets great gas mileage, and is still fun to drive. Great car for a teenager or to commute with.
I'm listing all the things you'd want to know about the car here so you can know exactly what you're looking at and won't have any surprises later on:
- There is some rust in the rear wheel wells
- The right rear bumper has a big scuff, and the right rear taillight lens (just the lens, not the light itself) is broken. I've driven it like that for years and the lights all work still, and pass inspection as they are. Easy to replace if someone wanted, but I never had a problem with it as is.
- The right turn signal doesn't self-cancel...never has...so you just have to cancel it manually after your turn is complete.
- There was a check engine light on recently due to a crack in the coolant reservoir, which I fixed about 6 months ago and it has stayed off since I cleared the code. So this isn't currently an issue, but if it comes back on before selling I'll replace the reservoir...the part is $25 at Auto Zone.
- There is a crack in the lower part of the front windshield that does not obstruct the view, but will probably need replaced to pass a safety inspection.
- The tire tread is ok but getting low. I measured it at 2.5 to 3/32, so I think they will pass safety, but I guess it could depend on who you get to inspect them. Realistically there's good life left in the tread.
- There is an intermittent issue where the taillight relay sticks and the taillights don't light up. This happens once in a blue moon and only when the lights are turned on. If you tap the dash down low on the passenger side the relay un-sticks & the lights go on. It's easy to tell when it happens as the A/C dash lights are on the same circuit and don't light either when it happens. So if you see that, you just give the dash a tap & the lights go right back on. The PJB with the relay could be replaced or a work around could probably be found, but honestly it happens so rarely & tapping the dash is so easy that it hasn't been worth messing with to me. This is a common thing with early Mazda 3 cars and you can find info pretty easily by googling it.
So that's everything I would want to know about if I were thinking about buying this car. If you're interested in taking a look in person give me a text and we can set something up. Plates are expired and I'm really not using it, so I don’t plan to renew the registration for now. That means test drives will be limited but we can work something out for anyone who is serious about buying. I can get a temporary permit if needed but I'll only do that for someone ready to buy...not for tire kickers. If you've got questions or want to arrange to meet up please text me. Also I'm completely hip to the vehicle history report scams and all the other ridiculous scanner noise, so please just don't waste my time with that noise.
I'm listing all the things you'd want to know about the car here so you can know exactly what you're looking at and won't have any surprises later on:
- There is some rust in the rear wheel wells
- The right rear bumper has a big scuff, and the right rear taillight lens (just the lens, not the light itself) is broken. I've driven it like that for years and the lights all work still, and pass inspection as they are. Easy to replace if someone wanted, but I never had a problem with it as is.
- The right turn signal doesn't self-cancel...never has...so you just have to cancel it manually after your turn is complete.
- There was a check engine light on recently due to a crack in the coolant reservoir, which I fixed about 6 months ago and it has stayed off since I cleared the code. So this isn't currently an issue, but if it comes back on before selling I'll replace the reservoir...the part is $25 at Auto Zone.
- There is a crack in the lower part of the front windshield that does not obstruct the view, but will probably need replaced to pass a safety inspection.
- The tire tread is ok but getting low. I measured it at 2.5 to 3/32, so I think they will pass safety, but I guess it could depend on who you get to inspect them. Realistically there's good life left in the tread.
- There is an intermittent issue where the taillight relay sticks and the taillights don't light up. This happens once in a blue moon and only when the lights are turned on. If you tap the dash down low on the passenger side the relay un-sticks & the lights go on. It's easy to tell when it happens as the A/C dash lights are on the same circuit and don't light either when it happens. So if you see that, you just give the dash a tap & the lights go right back on. The PJB with the relay could be replaced or a work around could probably be found, but honestly it happens so rarely & tapping the dash is so easy that it hasn't been worth messing with to me. This is a common thing with early Mazda 3 cars and you can find info pretty easily by googling it.
So that's everything I would want to know about if I were thinking about buying this car. If you're interested in taking a look in person give me a text and we can set something up. Plates are expired and I'm really not using it, so I don’t plan to renew the registration for now. That means test drives will be limited but we can work something out for anyone who is serious about buying. I can get a temporary permit if needed but I'll only do that for someone ready to buy...not for tire kickers. If you've got questions or want to arrange to meet up please text me. Also I'm completely hip to the vehicle history report scams and all the other ridiculous scanner noise, so please just don't waste my time with that noise.
Se habla Español. Car is in good overall condition with some rough spots that are cosmetic, but no real mechanical issues. Title is clean. It has been a great and very reliable commuter car, but isn't getting much use these days. Gets great gas mileage, and is still fun to drive. Great car for a teenager or to commute with.
I'm listing all the things you'd want to know about the car here so you can know exactly what you're looking at and won't have any surprises later on:
- There is some rust in the rear wheel wells
- The right rear bumper has a big scuff, and the right rear taillight lens (just the lens, not the light itself) is broken. I've driven it like that for years and the lights all work still, and pass inspection as they are. Easy to replace if someone wanted, but I never had a problem with it as is.
- The right turn signal doesn't self-cancel...never has...so you just have to cancel it manually after your turn is complete.
- There was a check engine light on recently due to a crack in the coolant reservoir, which I fixed about 6 months ago and it has stayed off since I cleared the code. So this isn't currently an issue, but if it comes back on before selling I'll replace the reservoir...the part is $25 at Auto Zone.
- There is a crack in the lower part of the front windshield that does not obstruct the view, but will probably need replaced to pass a safety inspection.
- The tire tread is ok but getting low. I measured it at 2.5 to 3/32, so I think they will pass safety, but I guess it could depend on who you get to inspect them. Realistically there's good life left in the tread.
- There is an intermittent issue where the taillight relay sticks and the taillights don't light up. This happens once in a blue moon and only when the lights are turned on. If you tap the dash down low on the passenger side the relay un-sticks & the lights go on. It's easy to tell when it happens as the A/C dash lights are on the same circuit and don't light either when it happens. So if you see that, you just give the dash a tap & the lights go right back on. The PJB with the relay could be replaced or a work around could probably be found, but honestly it happens so rarely & tapping the dash is so easy that it hasn't been worth messing with to me. This is a common thing with early Mazda 3 cars and you can find info pretty easily by googling it.
So that's everything I would want to know about if I were thinking about buying this car. If you're interested in taking a look in person give me a text and we can set something up. Plates are expired and I'm really not using it, so I don’t plan to renew the registration for now. That means test drives will be limited but we can work something out for anyone who is serious about buying. I can get a temporary permit if needed but I'll only do that for someone ready to buy...not for tire kickers. If you've got questions or want to arrange to meet up please text me. Also I'm completely hip to the vehicle history report scams and all the other ridiculous scanner noise, so please just don't waste my time with that noise.
I'm listing all the things you'd want to know about the car here so you can know exactly what you're looking at and won't have any surprises later on:
- There is some rust in the rear wheel wells
- The right rear bumper has a big scuff, and the right rear taillight lens (just the lens, not the light itself) is broken. I've driven it like that for years and the lights all work still, and pass inspection as they are. Easy to replace if someone wanted, but I never had a problem with it as is.
- The right turn signal doesn't self-cancel...never has...so you just have to cancel it manually after your turn is complete.
- There was a check engine light on recently due to a crack in the coolant reservoir, which I fixed about 6 months ago and it has stayed off since I cleared the code. So this isn't currently an issue, but if it comes back on before selling I'll replace the reservoir...the part is $25 at Auto Zone.
- There is a crack in the lower part of the front windshield that does not obstruct the view, but will probably need replaced to pass a safety inspection.
- The tire tread is ok but getting low. I measured it at 2.5 to 3/32, so I think they will pass safety, but I guess it could depend on who you get to inspect them. Realistically there's good life left in the tread.
- There is an intermittent issue where the taillight relay sticks and the taillights don't light up. This happens once in a blue moon and only when the lights are turned on. If you tap the dash down low on the passenger side the relay un-sticks & the lights go on. It's easy to tell when it happens as the A/C dash lights are on the same circuit and don't light either when it happens. So if you see that, you just give the dash a tap & the lights go right back on. The PJB with the relay could be replaced or a work around could probably be found, but honestly it happens so rarely & tapping the dash is so easy that it hasn't been worth messing with to me. This is a common thing with early Mazda 3 cars and you can find info pretty easily by googling it.
So that's everything I would want to know about if I were thinking about buying this car. If you're interested in taking a look in person give me a text and we can set something up. Plates are expired and I'm really not using it, so I don’t plan to renew the registration for now. That means test drives will be limited but we can work something out for anyone who is serious about buying. I can get a temporary permit if needed but I'll only do that for someone ready to buy...not for tire kickers. If you've got questions or want to arrange to meet up please text me. Also I'm completely hip to the vehicle history report scams and all the other ridiculous scanner noise, so please just don't waste my time with that noise.
Specifications
- Year: 2004
- Make: Mazda
- Model: Mazda3 Hatchback
- Trim: Not Specified
- Body: Hatchback
- Mileage: 218,781
- VIN: JM1BK143141130916
- Title Type: Clean Title
- Exterior Color: Red
- Interior Color: Black
- Transmission: Manual
- Liters: 2.0L
- Cylinders: 4
- Fuel Type: Gasoline
- Number of Doors: 5
- Exterior Condition: Fair
- Interior Condition: Good
- Drive Type: FWD
- Ad Number 6928017
- Page Views 1202 Views
- Favorite of 22 People
- Member Since Mar 2010
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